Jewelry Terms

Decorative silver cutouts, such as leaves or feathers, soldered to a silver jewelry item.

A loop or hook on the top of a piece of jewelry where a chain, cord, or string of beads fits through.

A method of setting gemstones in which the stone is held in the mounting by a narrow band of silver surrounding the girdle (outside perimeter) of the stone which is soldered to the silver base.

The Western “String Tie” made famous by cowboys. Generally made from a braided leather cord secured by a center ornament.

A stone with a rounded surface, rather than with facets. This style is commonly used with opaque to translucent stones such as opal, coral, onyx, moonstone, jade, turquoise, amethyst, garnet and topaz. The calibrated sizes are generally standard worldwide.

Abbreviated "ct." and spelled with a "c" is a measure of weight used for gemstones. One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram (200 milligrams). Stones are measured to the nearest hundredth of a carat. A hundredth of a carat is also called a point. Note: karat with a "K" is a measure of the purity of a gold alloy.

Creating handmade silver jewelry using molten silver and a mold of tufa stone, sandstone or other material.

A metal smithing term; the process of moving metal laterally to achieve line or form. A silversmith may have as many as 100 chasing tools, each to achieve a particular affect.

Short (generally 14-15 inch) necklace, usually of beads, pearls or chain.

A hook or device used to hold the ends of a necklace or bracelet together.

Zuni style grouping of stones in individual bezels.

Original old silver coins melted to be cast as jewelry. The percentage of silver varies.

The Spanish term for shell; may be oval or round, frequently with scalloped edges, with or without stones; may appear in rings, pendants, bolos, buckles and belts.

A process used in silverwork in which the piece is decorated or shaped in a raised design.

To decorate metal by gouging a design with graver's tools; embellishing metal or other material with patterns using a stamping tool or drill. Stamped pieces can be designed to imitate hand engraving. Under magnification, the design is much sharper in a hand engraved piece, with subtle irregularities.

An animal shape made by many Southwestern Indian tribes. Fetishes are objects that represent the spirits of animals or the forces of nature. Original fetishes were simple stones (shells, turquoise or bone) that seemed to resemble people or animals, sometimes made more realistic by a carver. The Zuni people have the reputation of being the most skilled at fetish carving.

Technique used in finishing silver jewelry...can also be used as a decorative tool.

See Nickel Silver.

Native American Indians artist mark...stamped, cast or engraved initials, names or symbols usually on the back of the jewelry item.

A Pueblo term literally meaning shell: discs or tubes with a hole in the center, usually of turquoise, coral, shell, or other materials, strung together to form a flexible strand, often of graduated size. The Santo Domingo Pueblo people of New Mexico are known for fine heishi beads.

The host rock is the material at the site in which a gem is formed.

Fine stones, shell and other materials are cut and fit into silverwork or on shell so that it is flush with the surface. Channel inlay has silver spacers between the stones. Cobblestone inlay has beveled edges on each stone and is set without silver spacers.

Jet is a black form of fossilized wood similar to coal, but harder. Jet and amber have a close relationship...they both come from trees, amber being fossilized tree resin and jet the fossilized wood.

Silver heishi...a type of necklace or bracelet constructed of very thin, fine, small silver cylinders originally strung on catgut, now strung on fine wire or floss.

The matrix is the part of the turquoise host rock that can be seen in a stone between the turquoise vein formations. The color and distribution of the matrix varies widely due to the composition of the host rock and formation time of the turquoise. American turquoise is known for interesting matrix patterns and colors.

A technique where the cut stones are set side by side rather than with a metal spacer between the stones. Santa Domingo mosaic is some of the best.

The crescent shaped pendant that hangs from squash blossom necklaces and other jewelry items.

Small stone cluster work using bezel set stones that are pointed at both ends. Zuni artists are famous for needlepoint.

A white metal mixture of copper, zinc, and nickel also known as German silver. It does not contain any silver. Many people are allergic to nickel. Sterling silver does not contain nickel.

A technique of silver working where two sheets of silver are soldered together after first cutting out a design in the top layer. The bottom layer is usually textured and oxidized for contrast. It was made famous by the Hopi tribe of Arizona after WWII.

To use chemicals to blacken silver to create greater accents or contrast on a silver jewelry item or to give the silver an antique look.

An ornament that can be suspended from a chain or necklace.

Similar to needlepoint but typically round stone clusters versus needle shape. In practice, much needlepoint jewelry is referred to as pettipoint.

A pin-like finding attached to an earring. It passes through the pierced earlobe and is usually secured by a clutch.

A claw or wire used to fasten and hold a stone in a setting.

Hand wrought silver is hammered from the back to create embossed or raised designs.

Molten metal is poured into cavities in stone, sand or cuttlebone molds to form a shape.

In a ring, the shank is the part that surrounds the finger. In bracelets, it surrounds the wrist. Mountings holding stones are attached to the top of the shank.

Tiny, round domed pieces of stone set in bezels. Sometimes called pettitpoint.

A process in which two or more metal items are joined together by melting and flowing a fill metal into a joint.

Spider web is a highly desired net looking matrix pattern seen in turquoise and other stones.

The Navajo word describing this type of necklace means "bead that spreads out." These necklaces have flared out silver strips resembling an actual flower of the squash plant on each side medallion of the necklace and a crescent shaped centerpiece.

Designs made by striking silver or gold with small metal punches to stamp designs, initials or hallmarks.

Metal containing silver of .925 and .075 copper to make it harder. Stamped 925, .925 or sterling.

The Skystone...a hydrous phosphate compound of aluminum and copper. The color and properties range slightly due to its formation processes and the host rock properties. Turquoise is fairly fragile and absorbent. It should not be soaked in water or exposed to oils, dirt or acids. The color of turquoise can vary from deep blue to deep green with every variation in between. Generally the more copper in the molecule, the bluer the turquoise (mines in Arizona). Iron in the stone makes it greener (mines in Nevada).